Distributed 16 October 1997 Ron called at a few minutes after 10 last night, apologizing because he thought he might have gotten me out of bed (he didn't). He said he had been working on making the phone call for an hour and a half, so no matter what time the call finally went through, he had to make it!
He is still with the dance group, but they did not go to Hainan Island because the group got an offer to perform in Zhongshan (near Macao) and they went there for a few days instead. When he called, they were in Chenzhou (Hunan Province), where the group is performing at a night club that seats approximately 900. Apparently the group is the entertainment between the other acts/performers. He says he thinks he is the only American in town, and everyone treats him like royalty. And the folk dance group takes very good care of him as well. He says they range in age from about 19 to 24. They (both he and the dancers) are getting better at communicating.
He says he now has a vocabulary of about 20 words. He says everyone is very eager to practice what English they have and to help teach him Chinese, so he'll have 20 people at a time trying to teach him! For the longest time he couldn't figure out why he was having such trouble learning his numbers, which is something he ususally learns wherever he goes. Then he discovered that one group of people was teaching him Cantonese, another teaching him Mandarin, and that there is yet another language spoken on Hainan Island, and some of the dancers were teaching him that!
He may go to Yangshuo (the place he originally intended to get to as quickly as possible after leaving Hong Kong) before he goes to Nanning and then into Vietnam (his first 30-day visa period ends 24 October), or he may wait to go there until after he comes back into China. He is healthy and having a fine time.
Ellen
30 October 1997 This letter written in Chengzhou, received 29 October, is undated. It was apparently written the afternoon of 16 October, which is the day Ron made the phone call to me that he refers to in the letter. He left Chengzhou the following morning. The postmark on the letter has numerals saying 1997.10.18.20 (my guess is 18 October at 8 pm) but of course I can't read the Chinese characters indicating the city where it was mailed. At least this letter was written on sheets of paper instead of on the inside of the envelope like the last one!
Ellen
[16 October 1997] Hello, Ellen,
It was good to be able to speak to you this morning, but it did take a bit of effort and a number of people to make it possible.
Yesterday I wanted to call, but I am on my normal cycle--up late and getting up late also ... so by the time I am up in the morning and find a phone ... too late ... and in the evening 6-12 I am either eating or watching the show.
So this morning I had intended to leave and found out yesterday that the bus leaves at 6:40 AM and arrives Guilin at 10 PM, and then I must somehow get to Yangshuo. But instead I decided to stay another day, but get up early to call you.
After about an hour trying the hotel phone and getting a busy signal before dialing the complete access code, with most of the hotel staff trying to figure out MCI, access #, credit card call, etc, one of the young ladies took me by the arm and told me to follow her. We walked a few blocks to the telephone company. She waited for me the whole time and tried to help me.
Gradually I was referred from one person to another until finally this young guy appears who can speak some English. He seemed important, judging from the actions of the people around him.
He tried the access code, but it was busy, time after time. Finally he went through the desk drawer at the reception station and pulled out a little booklet and I could see it was about access codes. He showed me a list, and by 10812 was MCL--not MCI--but it convinced him what I was doing. Finally I got through. By this time there were at least 25 people gathered around, but I doubt anyone other than the young guy could understand our conversation.
From Zhaoqing we [Ron and the dance group] took a chartered small bus to a small town called Heshan, but also named Shaping on my map. Slightly more than half way to Zhongshan (also called Shiqizhen on my map). Actually we were in Sastsi, a smaller town outside of Zhongshan, but I had to go to Zhongshan for the post office and bank. Instead of going from Zhongshan to Hainan Island, the group was booked into what they told me was a disco in Chenzhou, Hunan Province.
In Zhongshan, after the first night they danced in what appeared to me as a football stadium with a dirt (black) race track around the court, they were given 8 tickets to a disco. So they took me with them.
This was some place--several levels around an open center, a main and a secondary dance floor, all the expected lights, etc, and well amplified sound. Beer was starting at $6 US (the dancers earn about $100 US/month) and I didn't have enough local money with me even if I had been willing to buy. So we just watched and danced. There was a German guy dancing and we talked just enough to know where we were from. Me dancing with 5 young ladies was quite an experience, and I seemed to be a big hit with a lot of thumbs up.
So when they said the were booked into a disco, I couldn't resist coming along. Well ... it turned out to be a night club, with lots of entertainment, which I have enjoyed. It is a high [can't really read this word; the possibilities are high, huge, or bush!] building, behind the city market area, in the middle of town. The stage has a rock and roll band with drums up high in the center, and an additional runway stage like you would see at a Miss America pageant. The floor and the balcony are stuffed with tables, seating closely between 9-12. I was estimating seats for 600, but one of the men told me 1000. In the evening I would estimate 800 people seated, drinking, and watching the show. Singers, dancers, actors, a good collection of talent that continues uninterrupted and closely watched for at least 3 hours.
Tables cost around $16 US to reserve, and I have no idea what the drinks cost. I have been invited to be M.C., to have breakfast, lunch, and dinner with the performers, and the food provided is quite good. Sometimes I sit with the guys and sometimes with the girls, but they don't seem to eat together except as table space requires. In the evening I join the dance group behind the stage and am gradually meeting the others.
The first two ladies I met in Zhaoqing, who I liked the best and were most kind to me, making me comfortable and included, left suddenly while we were in Zhongshan, and I didn't get to say goodby, which left me feeling quite sad. Gradually I have gotten to know each of the others, most by name, and gotten to see their individuality.
I am sitting in the nightclub, the dance group are all taking their afternoon nap, the lighting is poor, and the interruptions frequent as I continue to write. These guys came and sat down and looked at my map and pictures, but I don't think we exchanged a word that we understood.
Some memories and thoughts.... Last night as I was leaving after the show, I was coming down the steps from their rooms when I met Lee Chang carrying a bowl of noodles with meat and soup ... more like noodles with soup rather than noodle soup. She insisted that I follow her back up to one of their rooms where she washed a bowl and put half of the noodles in my bowl and gave me a little metal spoon. The other half was for one of her friends, and it disappeared. So here I am sitting on her bed with this spoon and a bowl of soupy noodles and urged to eat by 3 ladies watching while they [can't read the next word--could be either 'chatter' or 'cluster' but I'm not sure] and continue my Chinese lessons. This is an example of my loss of control and feeling helpless ... how does one eat a bowl of soupy noodles with a spoon with no example to follow! Try it! No chopsticks were provided!
Sitting at a table, time after time, with my bowl of rice and several different dishes in the middle of the table. People, both men and women, continue to pick out the best of whatever and put it in my bowl. Sometimes I have no idea what it is, but am gradually learning what I like and don't like. They must watch and share info, because only the things I like seem to appear in my bowl.
The night I was dragged off by a group of students (English was their major) to watch another dance group and Hi Shu saved my chair (one of the very few) even though all her friends had already gone to change into their costumes.
I keep saying, just one more day, and I know I will cry when I leave these kind and thoughtful people. But for now--I will watch one more show tonight and see if I leave at 6:40 AM tomorrow.
Love you, miss you.
Ron
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Last updated: 22 May 2002